Colombier-le-vieux,
Ardèche
Vin de France, Syrah. Du plateau.
This is the site from which I produced my first wine in 2019. Hidden away in the hills of north Ardèche at 400m altitude. Syrah on granite soils. South exposure. The potential from these higher altitude sites, with the more common warm vintages is very interesting as you retain freshness in the wine from the cooler nights and a delayed maturity.
The vine age is around 25 years average, and the walled terraces made from the old decomposing granite allow the vines a steady base to plunge deep into the rock.
Farming is currently in conversion to organic. Grass is mowed, and all work is done by hand. Besides the spraying.
Access to the site is via a washed out, rocky chemin; and the native oak woodland engulfs it. The only real neighbours are the wild boar, ‘les sangliers’. They often lend a hand in helping decide the picking date, as they begin to strip the stems of their fruit.
Without travelling too much further north from the top of the N.Rhône, we reach the limits of the Beaujolais. Bully. The soils very typical of this part of the region (pierres bleues, formed by ancient volcanoes), and 50 year old selection massale vines allow for a wine with true identity of place.
The vigneron, a mate of a mate. Working organically, and producing his own wine with a similar philosophy to myself. The grapes are beautiful, small clusters and tiny berries. The vines are old and chunky, and the rows sensitively maintained.
I love Gamay, and the many different expressions it can behold.
Bully,
Southern Beaujolais
Vin de France, Gamay. Terre Bleue.
Echalas,
Vallée de Giers, Rhône
Vin de France, Aligoté. Blanc d’or.
North, over the top of the hill from my cellar is the village of Echalas. Old parcels of vines are dotted around these hills, some of which fall into the Coteaux du Lyonnais AOC. These two plots of Aligoté are no longer classified, but the 40 year old vines on Schist soils have the potential to produce a wonderful wine. Small, golden bunches hang on loosely maintained vines. The grass grows up between the bunches, and the suns rays shine for the entire day.
